| Required Tools and Supplies | |
| T30 TORX® Socket | Torque Wrench |
| 5mm Allen Socket | Breaker Bar |
| 15mm Socket | Pry Bar |
| 19mm Socket | Pliers |
| 1 1/16 Socket | Soft Faced Hammer |
| 15mm Wrench | Rubber Mallet |
| 15mm Crowfoot | Flat Head Screwdriver |
| Anti-Seize | Caliper Fasteners |
| Ball Joint Pinch Fasteners | Compression Ring |
| Ball Joint Pinch Nuts | Cotter Pin |
| Wire Hanger, Rope or Retention Strap | Safety Glasses |
| Shop Towels | Nitrile Gloves |
For information on tools, read the Tools and Fasteners Guide. Always wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves when servicing your Polaris RZR.
To remove and install the front half shaft on your RZR Trail or Trail S, follow these steps:
1. Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface, ensure it is in PARK and set the parking brake.
2. Remove the center cap from the wheel.
3. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the wheel hub castle nut with pliers.
4. Loosen the castle nut with a 1 1/16-inch socket.
5. Loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket with breaker bar while the vehicle is on the ground, but do not remove them at this time.
6. Safely elevate the vehicle. Reference your Owner’s Manual for proper lifting techniques.
7. Once safely elevated, remove the lug nuts and set aside.
8. Remove the wheel and set aside.
9. Remove and retain the brake shield fasteners with a T30 TORX® socket, and set the brake shield aside.
10. Loosen the pad adjuster screw two to three turns with a 5mm Allen socket.
11. Remove and retain the caliper mounting fasteners with a 15mm socket.
12. Carefully remove the caliper from the front hub and support it with a wire hanger, rope or retention strap to avoid damaging the brake line.
13. Remove and retain the castle nut and cone washer from the front wheel assembly.
14. Pull the front wheel hub assembly off the half shaft.
15. Remove and discard the lower ball joint pinch fastener and nut with a 15mm socket and wrench.
16. Lightly tap on the bearing carrier while removing the lower ball joint end. Tip: A pry bar may be used to help separate the bearing carrier from the ball joint. Use care not to damage the ball joint boot.
17. Remove and discard the upper ball joint pinch fastener and nut.
18. Lightly tap on the bearing carrier while removing the upper ball joint end.
19. Inspect both ball joints for any wear or damage and replace if necessary.
20. Remove the drive shaft from the front bearing carrier by pivoting the carrier out.
21. With a short, sharp jerk, remove the drive shaft from the front gearcase.
22. Clean the anti-seize off the drive shaft splines using a clean, dry cloth.
23. Inspect the threads and splines on the half shaft for nicks or burrs and replace if needed.
24. Inspect the CV boots to ensure there are no cuts, wear or damage and replace if needed.
25. Remove and discard the compression ring on the drive shaft with a flat-head screwdriver.
26. Install a new compression ring into the groove on the end of the driveshaft, and ensure it is fully seated.
27. Clean any old anti-seize from the gearcase and hub assembly.
28. Apply new anti-seize to the splines on the half shaft.
29. Align the splines on the half shaft with the front gearcase and push in firmly on the shaft until the compression ring is fully engaged in the gearcase. Tip: If necessary, use a rubber mallet to tap on the outboard end of the drive shaft to help with installation.
30. Installing the drive shaft into the front bearing carrier.
31. Reinstall the upper ball joint end into the bearing carrier and loosely install a new pinch fastener and nut.
32. Reinstall the lower ball joint end into the bearing carrier and loosely install a new pinch fastener and nut. Tip: Maneuvering the bearing carrier may help align the ball joint into the carrier.
33. Torque the fasteners to 42 ft-lbs (57 Nm).
34. Align the wheel hub with the drive shaft spline and maneuver onto the shaft until fully seated.
35. Reinstall the retained washer with the domed side out and castle nut. Tighten the castle nut until fully seated.
36. Carefully slide the caliper assembly onto the brake disc, ensuring the brake rotor is between the two pads. Before continuing, ensure any items used to secure the brake caliper are removed from the wheel well.
37. Align the caliper with the mounting holes on the front hub and reinstall the retained caliper fasteners.
38. Torque the fasteners to 30 ft-lbs (42 Nm).
39. Tighten the set screw on the back side of the caliper and turn the screw until the pads touch the brake disc.
40. Loosen the set screw a half turn to allow the brake disc to move.
41. Align the brake shield with the mounting holes on the caliper and reinstall the retained shield fasteners.
42. Torque the fasteners to 84 in-lbs (9.5 Nm).
43. Reinstall the wheel on the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts until fully seated.
44. Safely lower the vehicle until the tires begin to touch the ground. This will help keep the wheel in place when torqueing.
45. Once lowered, torque the lug nuts to specification in a crisscross pattern: steel wheels to 60 ft-lbs (81 Nm) and aluminum wheels to 120 ft-lbs (163 Nm).
46. Torque the wheel hub castle nut to 180 ft-lbs (244 Nm).
47. Insert a new cotter pin, and bend around the castle nut to secure. If necessary, tighten the castle nut to align the cotter pin holes.
48. Push the dust cap onto the wheel and ensure it is fully seated.
49. Finally, lower the vehicle completely.
For more information, see your authorized Polaris Dealer. Find a dealer near you with the Dealer Locator.
Maintenance tips, procedures and specifications can be found in your Owner's Manual.
To find diagrams and replacement part numbers, use the online parts catalog.
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